Filed Care for Taxidermy
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Field Care for Taxidermy
follow below is detailed instructions on how to care for your animal in the
field in order to have it professionally mounted.
We are happy you have found our website and hope you will look around if you are
interested in learning the Art of Taxidermy. We have several videos
available that teach different areas of taxidermy - Click a button above to hear
an overview of each video.
Taxidermy Skinning How-To Guide:
A simple step-by-step guide to skinning your trophy for taxidermy -
Including field care tips.
Measuring for Shoulder Mount Forms
There are 5 basic measurements that are needed when mounting a shoulder
mount trophy. Taking accurate measurements ensures that you will be using the
best mannequin or form for your trophy. The right form can save you valuable
time and energy because less, and possibly no alterations will be necessary.
Before skinning or
"caping" the specimen, take a special measurement that will come in handy later
during the mounting process. You will not need these to order your form, but
they are very helpful in setting your horns in place on your form or mannequin.
Measure from the tip of the right antler to the tip of the nose, then from the
tip of the left antler to the tip of the nose. Don't forget to refer back to
those numbers to get the original position of the antlers on the skull. Many
armatures make the mistake of setting the horns too far forward or too far back
on the form.
The next measurement
is the "A" Measurement. It is the distance from the tip of the nose to the
inside corner of the eye. The most accurate way to take this measurement is
using a "caliper". It is a special measuring tool that is used in taxidermy to
obtain the most accurate measurements. The rest of the measurements should be
taken from the carcass of a skinned specimen.
The next measurement
is the "B" Measurement. This is the circumference of the neck at the throat and
around the neck crossing the atlas of the neck.
The "A" and "B"
measurements are what you will need in order to select your form. The next 2
measurements provide information you will need during the mounting process in
order to give a true representation of the the amount of swell a neck might
"C" is the
circumference of the neck tight to the head, just behind the ears. And "D" is
the circumference of the neck 3 inches down from the "B" measurement.
Measuring a Tanned
Cape: To measure the tanned cape, soak the hide and lay it out flat, hair side
down. Pull the hide to full width, but don't over-stretch, and measure the
width just below the ears. This measurement will correspond to the "B"
measurement used to order forms. To find the "A" measurement, use a tape measure
or calipers from the front corner of the eye to the front of the nose. This will
be close, but "A" is best taken before skinning.
Skinning Your Mount for
Taxidermy - Field Dressing
the deer on its back, make a shallow cut through the skin just below the
breastbone. Make sure that you start your cut well away from the
brisket, allowing plenty of uncut skin for your shoulder mount. Insert
two fingers of the free hand, cradling the blade, to hold the skin up
and away from the entrails.
straight down the belly and around the genitals, separating but not
severing them from the abdominal wall. Slit the belly skin all the way
to the pelvic bone.
deeply around the rectum, being careful not to cut off or puncture the
intestine. Pull to make sure the rectum is separated from tissue
connecting it to the pelvic canal. Pull the rectum out and tie string
tightly around it to prevent droppings from touching the meat. Lift the
animal's back quarter a bit, reach into the front of the pelvic canal,
and pull the intestine and connected rectum into the stomach area.
you want to make a full shoulder mount, do not cut open the chest
cavity. Cut the diaphragm away from the ribs all the way to the backbone
area. Reach into the forward chest cavity, find the esophagus and wind
pipe, cut them off as far up as possible and pull them down through the
the deer onto its side, grab the esophagus with one hand and the
rectum/intestine with the other. Pull hard. The deer's internal organs
will come out in one big package with a minimum of mess.
Caping, the process of skinning out a trophy animal for taxidermy, is
best left to the taxidermist. Their experience skinning, especially the
delicate nose, mouth, eyes, and ears is invaluable toward producing a
quality mount. Damage to a hide is costly to repair. Some types of
damage simply cannot be "fixed" by the taxidermist.
trophies are ruined in the first few hours after death. As soon as the
animal dies, bacteria begins to attack the carcass. Warm, humid weather
accelerates bacteria growth. In remote areas, or areas not near your
taxidermist, a competent person may be required to cape out the hide in
order to preserve it.
taxidermist has a preferred method of caping (or skinning) a hide.
Contact your taxidermist prior to your hunt in order to get instructions
on their caping requirements. However, the following techniques are
Caping (Skinning) for a Shoulder Mount
a sharp knife, slit the hide circling the body behind the shoulder at
approximately the midway point of the rib cage behind the front legs.
Slit the skin around the legs just above the knees. An additional slit
will be needed from the back of the leg and joining the body cut behind
the skin forward up to the ears and jaw exposing the head/neck junction.
Cut into the neck approximately three inches down from this junction.
Circle the neck, cutting down to the spinal column. After this cut is
complete, grasp the antler bases, and twist the head off the neck. This
should allow the hide to be rolled up and put in a freezer until
transported to the taxidermist.
cuts should allow ample hide for the taxidermist to work with in
mounting. Remember, the taxidermist can cut off excess hide, but he
can't add what he doesn't have.
skinning a trophy to be mounted, don't cut into the brisket (chest) or
blood gets on the hide to be mounted, wash it off with snow or water as
soon as possible.
dragging the deer out of the woods with a rope. Place it on a sled, a
rickshaw, or a four-wheeler. The rope, rocks, or a broken branch from a
deadfall can easily damage the fur or puncture the hide. If you do need
to drag it our with a rope, attach the rope to the base of the antlers
and drag your trophy carefully.
Skinning Life-Size Big Game
are two major methods of skinning for a large life-size mount such as
deer, elk, or bear for taxidermy. These methods are the flat incision
and the dorsal method.
Skinning Using The Flat Incision
flat incision is used for rug mounts and for a variety of poses. Make
these slits (cutting the feet free from the carcass) and pull the skin
off the carcass. The head is detached as with the shoulder mount.
you can't take your hide immediately to a taxidermist, freeze it to your
Skinning Using The Dorsal Method
dorsal method of skinning involves a long slit down the back (from the
tail base up into the neck). The carcass is skinned as it is pulled
through this incision. The feet / hooves and the head are cut from the
carcass as with a shoulder mount explained later. Only use this method
with approval and detailed instructions from your taxidermist. Use this
method only when the skin can be frozen quickly after skinning.
Animals, coyote sized or smaller, should not be skinned unless by a
professional. Don't gut the animal. Small mammals, especially
carnivores, will spoil quickly because of their thin hide and bacteria.
If you can't take the small game animal immediately to a taxidermist, as
soon as the carcass cools completely, put it in a plastic bag and freeze
it. With the epidemic of rabies evident in many areas of the country,
take every safety measure necessary when handling your game.
not gut the bird. Rinse any blood from the feathers with water. Take the
bird immediately to your taxidermist or freeze it. Put the bird into a
plastic bag for freezing, being careful not to damage the feathers,
including the tail. If the bird's tail feathers do not fit in the bag,
not gut your fish.
you cannot take your fish immediately to a taxidermist, wrap it in a
very wet towel and put it in a plastic bag, making sure all the fins are
flat against the fish's body (to prevent breakage) and freeze it. A fish
frozen in this manner can safely be kept in the freezer for months.
A fish will lose its coloration shortly after being caught. A good
color photograph immediately after the catch may enable the
taxidermist to duplicate the natural color tones of that particular
Always have appropriate tags with your trophies when you take them
to your taxidermist.
Do not cut off the ears
Hawks and Owls are protected by Federal Law and can not be mounted
unless with special Federal permit.
For situations where
you are hunting with no available taxidermist or freezer, ask your
taxidermist about techniques to skin out the entire cape (including
the head) and salting the hide. This is the only method in remote
locations that can preserve your hide for later mounting.
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